Schöneberg Gasometer

Jul 23, 20200 comments

Weathering Heights

Of all the ways to get high in Berlin, few will have your spirits soaring like the vertical hike to the top of the Schöneberg Gasometer.

The skeletal steel structure looms 78 meters over the surrounding area, daring intrepid explorers to take their chances climbing its steep spindly steps seven levels till there ain’t any more. The next level is off.

The giant tubular trellis is a mishmash of rusting beams and bars, held together by nuts and bolts, air and rivets, with nothing in between. Wire mesh underfoot gives you a disconcerting view of the ground way down below, as your grip on the supporting railing grows ever tighter and you hope the welders did a good job all those years ago.

“DON’T LOOK DOWN!” you tell yourself, but you can’t help it and you look down anyway and wonder if birds freak out when they forget they can fly. This is no place for vertigo, unless you want vertigo. Then this is the place for vertigo.

The views from the 360° platforms are magnificent. Landmarks like Rathaus Schöneberg – where JFK declared he was a PfannkuchenTeufelsberg, Postdamer Platz, Gropiusstadt, Humboldthain’s flak tower, the Fernsehturm and more are easily picked out. Gasometer IV knows them all.

David Bowie used to live nearby on Hauptstraße, and Marlene Dietrich was born just around the corner on Leberstraße (then Sedanstraße). It’s the Rote Insel neighborhood, so-called because of its “red” left-leaning workers. She must have seen the gasometer being constructed when she was a child playing on the streets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apparently the locals bitterly opposed the construction of the Schöneberg gasworks’ fourth gasometer. It was by far the biggest, capable of holding up to 160,000 cubic meters of gas, with a diameter of 60 meters. Residents feared poisoning and explosions from escaping gas, and complained about the sun being blocked out, the impact on their homes, and disfigurement of the local cityscape.

The gasometer was one of Europe’s three biggest when it was constructed in 1910 (or 1909). But locals’ objections meant it didn’t go into operation until 1913.

Its story really begins in 1825 when the London-based Imperial Continental Gas Association (ICGA) got the go-ahead to build and operate gasworks and networks for Berlin. The first gas lanterns shone on Unter den Linden the following year.

The village of Schöneberg reached an agreement with the ICGA for street lighting in 1854. The company built the Schöneberg gasworks, which began operation in 1871.

There were three forebears to Gasometer IV, smaller gas rings getting progressively bigger until the largest arrived to complete the four-bear family in 1910. The telescopic gasometers were unique at the time in that they were built without the classical brick construction.

Gasometer IV is the last survivor from the Schöneberg gasworks. It somehow emerged relatively unscathed from two world wars, but the other three suffered badly in Allied bombing raids and the gasworks was shut down in 1946.

The three smaller gasometers eventually fell victim to so-called development – the Berlin disease.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Soon, the largest of the former gas rings may also be sacrificed for development as there are plans afoot to build inside the “protected” steel structure.

This is where the expandable chamber used to be during its gas-holding days. The chamber would rise and fall depending on how much gas was inside. A deep water tank underneath the chamber acted as a seal for the gas above.

Gasometer IV remained in service as a gas storage facility after the Schöneberg gasworks shut down until it was decommissioned in 1995.

Now it’s part of the EUREF-Campus, which claims to be developing the area around the gasometer “into a real-life laboratory for the shift to renewable energy.” All this, while touting its suitability for corporate events, conferences and gala dinners. No regular dinners will do anymore.

The gasometer has not gone untouched by these developments, and it too is forced to undergo the ignominy of being flogged for corporate splendor. Its dome was redesigned to mark the 2006 World Cup and “inspired” by the Reichstag.

Up to 600 guests can be accommodated in the former chamber – or 350 if they are being seated for one of those gala dinners – in conditions that are far less uncomfortable than they were in its gas-holding days. The fanciness knows no bounds now, with neon lights, napkins, tablecloths and portions to be admired and not eaten. The fancier the event, the smaller the portions.

Thankfully there’s still an escape route – up the steep steps to seventh heaven at the top, where there are only kestrels for company.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

LOCATION AND ACCESS (HOW TO FIND GUIDE)

  • What: Schöneberg Gasometer, formerly one of Europe’s three biggest gas-holders. Born in 1910, retired in 1995, still standing.
  • Where: Torgauer Str. 12–15, 10829 Berlin.
  • How to get there: S-Bahnhof Schöneberg is nearby. You’ll need the exit for Sachsendamm, from which you’ll find Torgauer Straße. You won’t be able to miss the gasometer. Here it is on a map.
  • Getting in: The only way up is by taking a tour for €24. Groups are limited to nine people at a time, all over 12 years old. Email Sascha Maikowski and the gasometer crew at [email protected] for details.
  • When to go: Go when the weather is good. Tours don’t take place otherwise and can be canceled if conditions take a turn for the worse. Tours generally only take place in the summer months, and this is possibly the last summer they’ll be available.
  • Difficulty rating: 2/10. Climbing steps is the biggest obstacle.
  • Who to bring: People who aren’t afraid of heights.
  • What to bring: There’s a long list of stuff they tell you to bring – a warm jacket, hat, gloves and ballpoint pen. Cameras and phones will need to be secured with a cord, and backpacks are not allowed. You can leave your bags with the crew’s equipment downstairs.
  • Dangers: Falling is a danger. Don’t do anything stupid like sit on a railing for a selfie. Be careful and everything will be fine.

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